Namche: 3472 m
Distance: 7.9 km (27.4 km total)
Dawn gave us a clear view of Kongde Ri. During the night we heard a bell ring at 3:00, 3:30, 4:00, 4:30. We wondered if it was a monastery, but Rishi told us it was the police station letting everyone know someone was on duty. Just another sound to add to the dogs yapping, ravens cawing, bells of mules and dzopkes. As we were waiting for breakfast Rishi pointed out some wild Himalayan thar that had come down on the other side of town to graze.
We were walking at 8:15, following a trail up the hill. As Namche dropped away below us, other peaks came into view – as well as Kongde, we could see Thamserku again, Pachermo and Tashi Laptcha beyond Kongde, and Khumbila above us. We reached the disused airstrip at Syangboche and could see our previous camp sites at Monjo and Ghat back down the valley – a looonnng way down.
Our first destination was the Everest View Hotel. As we approached it, the cloud started to break up revealing blue sky, and the sun came out. We decided to go in and spent quite a bit of time on the porch hoping the cloud would clear further up the valley. Tabuche came into view, and eventually so did Ama Dablam. We caught the occasional glimpse of the flanks of Lhotse, but the cloud was coming and going so we decided to press on, and save the views of Everest for another day. What we did see was so amazing, it was hard to take it all in.
From the hotel we headed downhill to the village of Khumjung, and visited the secondary school there, which had been set up by Sir Ed and had a not-very-realistic statue of him that we all had photos taken in front of. Khumjung seems larger than Namche. There were a few damaged buildings that were being repaired, but overall it seemed like the village got off fairly lightly in the earthquake.
From Khumjung it was a slow walk uphill to the neighbouring village of Khunde, where we visited the hospital there, founded by Sir Ed and continued to be supported by the Hillary Foundation. One of the doctors showed us around. He was born in Thame village and trained in Kathmandu. The hospital has a clinic for minor surgeries, a 14-bed ward, a delivery room, a lab, and an X-ray/ultrasound room.
By this time the sun had gone, the cloud level and the temperature had dropped, and it was starting to snow. It was another one and a half hours walking back to Namche. We passed a government yak breeding farm and popped out at the top of the airstrip. On the way back down to Namche (which was very steep and had lots of steps) we passed lots of people carrying all sorts of things. Two people – a man and a woman – were carrying big sheets of plywood. He had about ten and she had about five. Another woman and a small boy were carrying live chickens. I asked if we could take their photo, which she agreed to. We gave her 20 Rs (about $0.30), which she seemed reluctant to take. I think she may have thought we wanted to buy her chicken! When she realised we just wanted to give her the money, her face lit up. It was such a small thing for us, but such a big thing for her. I guess that’s what it’s all about.
Next day
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