After breakfast we packed and checked out of the hotel. Heading back to Thamel we noticed that some of the shops which had been closed on previous days were now open, so this gave us some hope that the bike shop would be too. It was, and we both felt much better about doing a tour with them than another outfit we found yesterday.
We were taken around to their workshop to get kitted out with bikes and helmets, and another guy arrived who was interested in doing a day trip. Turned out he was an ex-pat Kiwi who grew up in Hawkes Bay but is now living in Cairns. Small world...
Our guide, Rozin, took us on a loop out in the countryside to the northwest of the city. We began by heading past the Swayambhunath (a.k.a. monkey temple) complex. It wasn’t long before we were out in the countryside, riding on dusty, rocky paths past fields where people were harvesting rice. It was like riding up the firebreaks back home, except we were riding past people’s houses. After some time we stopped at a small shop for a cold drink. There were some kids playing on a massive swing supported by bamboo poles, erected right across the path. Apparently these swings are built in rural areas as part of the Dasain festival celebrations. It was tempting to have a go, but I’m not sure the travel insurance would cover any injuries!
At the top of the first big climb we reached a saddle which gave us a fantastic view down into the next valley. After that we followed the dirt road more or less along a contour, so it was much easier going. There was a bit more motorbike and pedestrian traffic. We even passed an old bus that had broken down, leaving a trail of oil behind it.
Eventually we turned off the main dirt road onto a trail that was much rougher and much steeper, both up and down. At one point I said to Raewyn, ‘This is like Karapoti on steroids…’ We resorted to walking the bikes, having given up on pedalling up the really steep hills and I was getting cramp on the downhills. Finally we reached the forest, which was a lot cooler (temperature-wise) to cycle through and the trail was smoother. It was a gentle downhill to the road leading us back to Kathmandu and a reasonably pleasant ride back in.
When we reached the city it was full-on; no easing back into things through the outskirts - all of a sudden there were people and traffic everywhere. It was hard to concentrate on Rozin while avoiding obstacles, pedestrians, and getting hit by anything. We came to an intersection with the ring road, which we had to cross, and it was absolute madness. The road was in just as bad condition as what we’d been biking on all day. Thankfully we made it across in one piece and back to the bike workshop about 3:45 pm. That gave us a little more than an hour to get back to the hotel, collect our bags, walk up the road to the Radisson, check in, have a shower and meet the rest of the tour group at 5:00 for drinks and to be told the logistics by our trek leader, Rishi. There are 9 of us in total: three Brits, four Aussies, and the two of us.
Overall, I really enjoyed today. I know I’m not a city person; maybe that’s why I enjoyed getting out to see the countryside. It was also really interesting seeing more rural dwellings and how the earthquake has affected people living there. Interestingly they still have TV and cell phones...
Rural houses and fields just outside Kathmandu
People harvesting by hand in fields just outside Kathmandu
Taking a short rest. In the background is one of the bamboo swings erected for the Dasain festival
Rural transport
Arriving back into Kathmandu
Next day
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