Nepal: Kathmandu (23 Oct)

Index K1 K2 K3 K4 T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 T7 T8 T9 T10 T11 T12 T13 T14 M1 M2 M3 M4 M5 D

Our flight from Singapore to Kathmandu was just like any other until the last half hour, as we started coming in to land and caught our first glimpses of the countryside. The first thing that struck me was the terraced hillsides, which gave way to fields interspersed with clusters of buildings 3-4 storeys high – as if people build the houses vertically because that’s what the landscape is like. As we got closer to the city the clusters got closer together until it was just continuous. Here and there we could see gaps where a building was no longer standing.

Getting visas at the airport turned out to be no trouble, nor was collecting our luggage. We decided to take a pre-paid taxi to the hotel rather than engage in bargaining with a crowd of taxi drivers. It cost US$15 which was ok (higher than normal due to the fuel crisis). On the way it became apparent that there aren’t really road rules – more like ‘road suggestions’. You drive on the left, unless you need to pass, in which case drive on the right and use your horn liberally. Cars and buses and motorbikes and cyclists and pedestrians all share the road. Intersections are a free-for-all. Cows have right of way.

Upon arriving at the hotel, we unpacked and took a breather, then headed out towards Thamel for a walk. There were countless shops there selling trekking gear (real or fake, it was hard to tell), carvings, knives, textiles, maps, tea, etc. It got a bit overwhelming with so many people wanting you to look in their shop, or asking if you wanted a rickshaw ride, or flat out asking you for money. I don’t like feeling like I’m being viewed as a walking ATM. We sought refuge in an ‘Italian’ café and had some momos (spiced chicken dumplings). We watched people, motorbikes, taxis (mostly small Suzukis) passing by outside, including a guy with two stumps shuffling by a few inches at a time, pushing his begging bowl ahead of him and trying to avoid getting run over.

Next day