Old Ghost Road

My friend and I
On the Old Ghost Road
My friend and I on the Old Ghost Road
So up the hill we go
My friend and I on the Old Ghost Road

Recently Raewyn and I walked the Old Ghost Road. It's an 85 km trail from Lyell, near Murchison, to Seddonville, about halfway between Karamea and Westport. It's been designed for both walking and mountain biking, but having heard and read other people's accounts of their bike trips and looking at photos we decided not to risk it on bikes. We both agreed that for us it was the right decision.

The Old Ghost Road is up there amongst the best walks we have done (and better than some of the Great Walks). Each day the scenery is completely different - as you'll see in the following pictures.

This was the second time Raewyn has suggested a tramping trip for her birthday. In 2016 we did Lake Waikaremoana. More about that later!

Day 1: Lyell campground (roadend) to Lyell Saddle hut
16.6 km, 6:31 total (4:30 walking), ascent 1199m, descent 472m

Start of the trail

The first part of the trail follows an old route to the mining towns of Gibbstown and Zalatown, abandoned in the 1900s. The route was lost to the bush for many years but was recently rediscovered.

Along the way there are the odd remnants of human activity. This structure was more recent than most, abandoned in the 1960s.

Along the way you cross the 'Big Slips', formed during the 1929 Inangahua and 1968 Murchison earthquakes. Getting the track through here was a major undertaking for those building it!

Mountain bikers need to watch out for meteor showers.

Lyell Saddle hut

We had booked one of the sleepouts at each of the huts. It didn't cost that much more to do so, and it meant we had a bit more privacy and didn't have to worry about getting woken up in the night by other people. That's not to say we didn't get woken up in the night...


Day 2: Lyell Saddle to Ghost Lake
11.2 km, 4:27 total (3:04 walking), ascent 650m, descent 321m

The trail from Lyell Saddle starts off as a gentle zig-zag up the flank of Bald Hill.

Eventually you emerge from the treeline onto the tops.

The track passes Rocky Tor. This is where things get pretty spectacular.

The trail along here is pretty rocky and loose. While I could have biked it, I wouldn't have enjoyed it along this part - especially with panniers.

Rugged countryside all around

The view from Ghost Lake hut

After arriving at the hut and having some lunch we went for a walk down to the lake. This shot is looking back up at Ghost Lake hut. (You can also see our sleepout.) Both of them are perched on the edge of a cliff. When they were building this part of the track, they built the hut first, flying all the supplies in by helicopter. Then the hut was used as accommodation for the track builders, working out towards each end.

Getting to know a group of Americans who were also walking the trail and staying at the same huts we were. The guy on the right with the hat is Dale Robertson, who was involved in building some of the huts (including Ghost Lake) and the trail itself. He had some great stories to share.

A most welcome sight on day 2 - bucket shower! Just add warm water and open the tap...


Day 3: Ghost Lake to Stern Valley hut
12.3 km, 5:01 total (3:19 walking), ascent 416m, descent 1255m

Some walkers choose to combine what we did in days 2 and 3, but we're glad we broke it up because the sunrise from Ghost Lake hut was amazing.

Leaving Ghost Lake.

Immediately after leaving the hut, the track drops several hundred metres via switchbacks. Again pretty rocky and loose - I wouldn't have enjoyed biking this at all.

It was a great time of year to go, seeing the rata in flower

Looking back up at the switchbacks

A rooty part of the trail up to Skyline ridge. Again, I'm glad we didn't bike this!

Looking down the Stern valley towards 'the boneyard' - we would walk through this on the following day.

Raewyn on Skyline ridge

Skyline ridge from above

Walking along Skyline ridge was a highlight of the trail

The infamous 'Skyline Steps' - built by Dale. No comment needed about the decision to walk or bike!

Waterfall along Stern Creek - interesting rock formations


Day 4: Stern Creek to Specimen Point hut
25.3 km, 9:20 total (5:59 walking), ascent 1047m, descent 1298m

Today was Raewyn's birthday. As a surprise for her I had some freeze-dried icecream planned for later (to make up for the Queen Charlotte trip where I had promised when we got to the Portage there was a shop that sold ice cream, but when we arrived it had closed down. Cue major disappointment and always being reminded of 'icecreamgate' on future tramps!). But there were various hints dropped by our American travel buddies along the way that there should be cake etc. etc. The hut warden at Ghost Lake had some birthday candles that he gave us. I had no cake. But I did have pancake mix...

Given that today was going to be long, we got an early start and were treated to amazing views of the lakes at the bottom of the Boneyard.

Entering the Boneyard - another scar on the landscape from the earthquakes decades ago which basically squeezed the mountain until it cracked and fell apart.

There are some pretty big rocks in the Boneyard.

Coming down the other side, into the Goat Creek catchment.

Lunch at Goat Creek, with an inquisitive (but stupid) weka. Stupid because I started throwing kindling at it to make it go away, and it thought I was throwing it something to eat.

Crossing the south branch of the Mokihinui River there is a bridge with a door in it. This is to keep the possums on one side from crossing to the other side and teaching the possums there bad tricks about eating native snails. Apparently so far it seems to be working. True story - I'm not making it up!

Side creek along the way

The flats at Mokihinui forks.

Head of the Mokihinui gorge, viewed from Specimen Point hut.

Us with the Americans (plus one Englishman-turned Aussie): Steve, me, Dale, Barbara, John Wayne, Raewyn, Denis. Dale and Denis built Ghost Lake hut. And yes, John Wayne is his actual name.


Day 5: Specimen Point hut to Seddonville roadend
17.1 km, 5:05 total (4:13 walking), ascent 699m, descent 799m

Crossing Specimen Creek, shortly after leaving the hut

One of many bridges down the gorge

It was hard choosing just a few photos of the gorge to post here

Further down the gorge

Long straight sections are good for getting somewhere fast, but pretty tedious to walk along

The river was pretty impressive


We summed up the trip with a song that we came up with on day 4 to share with the others (to the tune of 'Oh when the saints go marching in'):

My friend and I
On the Old Ghost Road
My friend and I on the Old Ghost Road
So up the hill we go
My friend and I on the Old Ghost Road

From Lyell Saddle
To Ghost Lake Hut
It was like climbing a tower
Our stink was getting worse each hour
So we were glad there was a shower

We were surprised
There was no rain
Despite the forecast on the second day
But we will not complain
If the weather turns out okay

The scenery
Was picturesque
From north to south and east to west
All the switchbacks and Skyline Steps
I don't know which ones were best

And on the way
We met some mates
From Australia and United States
There was Steve, Barbara, Denis and Dale
And last but not least John Wayne

So here we are
Now at the end
Well it's just around the bend
I would highly recommend
The Old Ghost Road to all my friends