What’s this? Three ‘Great Walks’ in a little over a month? Yes, although this one was kind of an afterthought. On our South Island trip last year, Raewyn and I had to forego an intriguing activity on our journey from Westport to Franz Josef, namely knifemaking at Barrytown. It was an all-day activity, but we weren’t able to fit it in at the time. We decided that ‘when’ we did the Heaphy track, we’d take an extra day and do the knifemaking – not knowing it would be this soon. After Milford and Kepler over the summer, we thought that would be enough. But I was going to a conference in Nelson, so we figured since one of us was half-way there (and I could take my car easily enough), Raewyn could fly to Nelson and we could go from there. The rest, as they say, is history…
Day 1
Drive Nelson – Brown’s hut road end, walk to Perry Saddle hut (16.8 km, 1246 m elevation gain, 5 hrs)
We used Derry Kingston’s car relocation service (
Heaphy Track Help) and would highly recommend him! The Heaphy Track is one of the most remote tracks I’ve done. Milford is remote, but the bus/boat boat/bus connections are well set-up. Kepler is right on the back doorstep of Te Anau township. Tongariro has a shuttle service and finishes at Whakapapa village. Routeburn has good shuttle connections from Queenstown to Glenorchy, then from the Divide to Te Anau and onward from there. Even the Southern Crossing, getting to Otaki Forks is only 4-5 km of gravel road. The Aorere end of the Heaphy track is 59 km from Takaka, of which 12 km is gravel. From Kohaihai, you have 4 km of gravel, then 11 km of tar seal to Karamea, and 95 km from there to Westport. But in a way, it’s the remoteness that is one of the most appealing things about these places.
The Heaphy track is the longest land-based Great Walk, at 78 km. Despite the length, the gradients encountered on the main track are not at all difficult. It follows an old bridle trail from Tasman Bay to the Tasman Sea. The scenery is different every day – from the beech forest of the Aorere valley to the tussocklands of Gouland Downs, then descending to the Heaphy valley with nikau palm forest before following along the coast.
Unfortunately Raewyn wasn’t feeling well for most of the time, although she perked up on the last day. But I’m really proud of her for pushing through and not giving up.
A steady climb from the Aorere valley to Perry Saddle.
The track follows an old bridle trail through native beech forest.
From Perry Saddle I climbed to the top of Mt Perry (extra 3.4 km, 435 m elevation gain, 1 hr 23). This view is looking back down the Aorere valley (towards Golden Bay).
Summit of Mount Perry, looking south towards the Tasman Mountains
Day 2
Perry Saddle Hut – James Mackay Hut (23.6 km, 753 m elevation gain, 6 hrs 18)
All smiles as we left Perry Saddle Hut
A short distance from the hut we found a sizeable snail shell and were on the lookout for live snails for the rest of the day
Looking across the Gouland Downs. Bad weather coming.
Walking across the Gouland Downs, just before raincoats were required
Raewyn crossing a wire bridge
Red tussock on Gouland Downs, just after Saxon Hut
Day 3
James Mackay hut – Heaphy Hut (19.3 km, 496 m elevation gain, 5 hrs 33)
View of the Heaphy River mouth from James Mackay hut. It’s always nice to see where you’ll be going!
It might not be as big as the shell we found, but we finally saw a live carnivorous land snail.
The track passes through mossy banks...
... and over coal seams
From James Mackay hut, the track slowly drops down to the Heaphy River
On the banks of the Heaphy River
Our first taste of nikau palm forest
Being surrounded by enormous rata and nikau palms makes you feel like you’re in Jurassic Park
Thankfully we didn’t see any velociraptors
View from Heaphy hut, at the river mouth
Day 4
Heaphy hut – Kohaihai road end (16.3 km, 200 m elevation gain, 4 hrs)
Coastal section of the Heaphy track
This bridge felt like the gateway to Jurassic Park
Dense nikau palm forest all the way down to the beach
View from the lookout at Kohaihai bluff all the way back to the Heaphy River mouth
On the drive down to Westport, we took a side trip to visit the Oparara Arch. It was impressive, but if you want to visit, be warned – it’s 15 km of gravel road, which took us about 45 mins each way. Oh and you’ll be sharing said road with tourists, who usually don’t know how to drive, especially on gravel.
Moria Gate arch, Oparara Basin
Day 5
Knifemaking at Barrytown
Ever wanted to make your own knife, from scratch – steel, brass, glue and native timber? It’s not as hard as it sounds...
First you heat the steel and beat it into submission to shape and harden the blade
Then polish off the carbide surface
Drill holes and fix the brass bolster
Cut the handle pieces
Rough shaping of the handle
Having a break to take ponies for their daily walk
A 6-manpower swing...
... can make for a pretty big launch...
... as I shall now demonstrate!
After lunch we do our final shaping of the blades...
... and polish, polish, polish
... polish...
... polish...
All done! Any guesses which one is Raewyn’s and which is mine?
